Good Eats: Dewey’s
December 11, 2014
Situated right in the center of Downtown Kirkwood, Dewey’s is a bustling pizza restaurant that is almost as Kirkwoodian as Spencer’s Grill or the Train Station. Visible behind a pane of glass, the staff are hard at work in the back kneading, spinning and topping the pizza dough. But pizza isn’t all they serve—the salad and warm atmosphere is what keeps the place busy from day to day. The hostess estimated their average is around 800-900 pizzas per night at the Kirkwood location, and they are the busiest location in the St. Louis area. The stainless steel lamps hanging over the tables, the collection of large ducts jutting from the ceiling and the outcroppings of brick walling pitch in to lend the room a classy, warm glow. The waiters are generally attentive and friendly and refills for fountain drinks come early and often (which along with water and hot drinks, are the only things a high-schooler can really evaluate beverage-wise). Of course, these things come alongside a bill slightly more hefty than some would like to pay for a large pizza and some salad ($21.45 and $8.45 respectively), but these things are worth it. I wouldn’t stay for dessert though, as they are similarly expensive but less exceptional.
The pizza itself has a crust that is light and chewy but not tough, and whatever toppings or style you order, it is sure to be at the least nice and filling. The best I have tasted is the Southwest Barbeque Chicken Pizza, a smoky, sweet pizza chock full of beans, red peppers, some oozing cheeses and generous drizzles of the sweet barbeque sauce (order a 17” to get the most pie for your buck). Also, be sure to try the seasonal harvest salad for flavorful bowl of romaine lettuce topped with figs slices, goat cheese, pumpkin seeds, bacon bits (not the terrible kind—actual bacon) and a light dressing of honey mustard vinaigrette. The waiter will come over and ask if you’d like some fresh ground pepper and grind it until you say “When.”